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Business & Tech

Restaurant Review: Fritto Misto

Wine and dine without the need to nickel and dime.

If ever a Hermosa Beach restaurant epitomized value dining, Fritto Misto would be it.  The neighborhood atmosphere, the friendly, laid-back service and more to the point, their generous bring-your-own-wine policy, all make for one of the better casual dining experiences in town. 

Fritto Misto's large plates of Italian bistro favorites have locals and tourists alike coming back frequently and it's easy to see why. Come hungry and you'll still leave with a bag for your doggy; the portions here are enormous.

Our hostess greets us with a smile and seats us at a corner table in the back.  The low lighting, colorful pasta plates adorning the walls and pleasant hum of conversation from the crowded dining room all make for a delightful atmosphere. 

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We peruse the wine list and it's immediately apparent that the owner, Robert Kerr, knows his wine and where to find a bargain.  A bottle of the house Chianti is only $14 and there's a good selection of domestic and imported wines with an emphasis, naturally, on Italian varietals.  We go with a Sangiovese, which is dry and smooth with a nicely tannic finish (and at $20, a steal).  Also of note, with a corkage fee of just $2 per person, many people bring their own bottles to dinner from the wine shop just a couple doors down.

Our server, Holly, is friendly and professional, reciting the specials as she drops down some fresh bread with a bowl of pungent garlic puree to go with the olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

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A toast to the good life and we start with the greens and Gorgonzola salad ($8) and a plate of the fritto misto ($11) — literally, "fried mixed".  The salad is a great starter, laden with organic baby greens, roma tomatoes, Gorgonzola and toasted walnuts dressed in a balsamic vinaigrette.  The fritto misto is also a hit with the table, lightly fried calamari, shrimp, artichoke hearts and seasonal veggies that disappear quickly into their accompanying ramekins of garlic aioli and marinara sauce. 

For a main course, the blackened salmon over heaps of spinach fettuccine ($17) is delicious, topped with a mango pico de gallo that provides the perfect acidic counterpoint to the savory blackened fish. 

Equally abundant is the Il Carnivoro ($15) pasta, filet mignon tips, pancetta and cabernet wine tossed with fettuccine and smothered with their chunky Bolognese sauce.  If you're craving red meat and the diet starts tomorrow, grab a fork and dig in.

Vegetarians and calorie counters take note: Fritto Misto offers a wide variety of non-meat dishes including artichoke-stuffed gnocchi ($12) and ravioli with basil and wild mushrooms ($12), as well as a create-your-own pasta option.  Choose from more than 10 pasta varieties (including gluten-free and soy), more than 20 sauces along with a litany of proteins, vegetables and other accompaniments such as caramelized onions, olives, broccoli and pine nuts. 

If your pants still fit well enough to tackle dessert, the flourless chocolate cake ($4) and moist lemon bar with a shortbread crust ($4.50) pair nicely with a cappuccino ($3.50).

Fritto Misto might not be the best place for an intimate, romantic dinner, but for good food, great value and a warm atmosphere, you're sure to leave with an empty wine glass and a full stomach. 

Fritto Misto is located at 316 Pier Avenue, Hermosa Beach, CA.  Open Sunday-Thursday 11:30am-9:30pm; Friday-Saturday 9:30am-10:30pm.  Telephone: 310-318-6098 for reservations.  Metered street parking.

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